The Jewelry Designer Series – J.J. Jewelry
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. J.J. Jewelry (Jonette Jewelry Company) is the third in the series. To buy or sell J.J. or any other collectible costume or fine jewelry, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Why J.J. Jewelry????
Why have I included J.J. jewelry among the more prestigious jewelry makers… because in these hard economic times the wonderful vintage and new J.J. pins and brooches are affordable, relevant and fun. If you love fantasy and whimsy, J.J. pins are delightful and fanciful. There scale is always quite massive and the subject matter is always unusual with “tongue in cheek” chic!!!.
Jonette Jewelry Company was founded by Abraham Lisker in East Providence R.I. as The Providence Jewelry Company in 1935. The name was changed to Lisker & Lisker when Nathan Lisker (Abraham's Brother) joined the company. During World War II the Lisker & Lisker company closed their operations due to metal shortages as a result of the war effort. In 1953 the company was re-incorporated as Jonette Jewelry Company with the trademark J.J. The name “Jonette” was formed by combining parts of Lisker’s parents names (John & Etta).
The novelty pins that J.J. is so famous for came as a result of the popularity of J.J.’s earlier ballerina and mother of pearl figural pins.
The quality of the J.J. Jewelry has always been quite good and considered affordable. The finishes are very high quality and even after decades of wear the golden and silvery metal finishes hold up beautiful. The hardware and fittings are also more like the better quality jewelry than J.J.’s price competitors.
J.J. Jewelry has many collectors and up until their closing in 2006 were producing great brooches and pins including Christmas and figural themes. Personally, I've never seen a piece of J.J. jewelry I haven’t loved.
J.J. Jewelry closed in 2006 citing international competition and market conditions. This means that everyone of you lucky enough to own a J.J. brooch is holding a desirable collector’s piece and the prices will only escalate in the future.
J.J. Jeweler Marks
Mark: J.J. was used c. 1970
Mark: Artifacts registered in 1986
Mark: Santa Fe pewter line of western animals
Examples of J.J. Pins and Brooches:
VINTAGE JJ CUTE LITTLE BOW WOW PUPPY DOG WITH TREAT IN HIS TUMMY PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 MASSIVE OLD TIMEY PROPELLER PROP PLANE PIN
VINTAGE JJ CRUISE SHIP WITH SUNGLASSES* CAMERA* PASSPORT* PALMTREE* LUGGAGE DANGLY CHARMS PIN
VINTAGE JJ *REALLY COOL* TWO TONE VASE OF DAISIES PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 IGUANA LIZARD GECKO ON LEAFY BRANCH PEWTER PIN
VINTAGE JJ LITTLE COPPER LEPRACHAN SITTING ON A TOADSTOOL PIN TACK
VINTAGE JJ RHINESTONE DOUBLE MUSICAL NOTE "CHORD" MUSIC PIN
VINTAGE JJ FABULOUSLY MASSIVE SWIMIING ANGELFISH IN THE SEAWEED PIN
Enjoy your search for fabulous and wonderful J.J. pins and brooches!!!!
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Thursday, June 24, 2010
The Jewelry Designer Series – J.J. Jewelry
The Jewelry Designer Series – J.J. Jewelry
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. J.J. Jewelry (Jonette Jewelry Company) is the third in the series. To buy or sell J.J. or any other collectible costume or fine jewelry, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Why J.J. Jewelry????
Why have I included J.J. jewelry among the more prestigious jewelry makers… because in these hard economic times the wonderful vintage and new J.J. pins and brooches are affordable, relevant and fun. If you love fantasy and whimsy, J.J. pins are delightful and fanciful. There scale is always quite massive and the subject matter is always unusual with “tongue in cheek” chic!!!.
Jonette Jewelry Company was founded by Abraham Lisker in East Providence R.I. as The Providence Jewelry Company in 1935. The name was changed to Lisker & Lisker when Nathan Lisker (Abraham's Brother) joined the company. During World War II the Lisker & Lisker company closed their operations due to metal shortages as a result of the war effort. In 1953 the company was re-incorporated as Jonette Jewelry Company with the trademark J.J. The name “Jonette” was formed by combining parts of Lisker’s parents names (John & Etta).
The novelty pins that J.J. is so famous for came as a result of the popularity of J.J.’s earlier ballerina and mother of pearl figural pins.
The quality of the J.J. Jewelry has always been quite good and considered affordable. The finishes are very high quality and even after decades of wear the golden and silvery metal finishes hold up beautiful. The hardware and fittings are also more like the better quality jewelry than J.J.’s price competitors.
J.J. Jewelry has many collectors and up until their closing in 2006 were producing great brooches and pins including Christmas and figural themes. Personally, I've never seen a piece of J.J. jewelry I haven’t loved.
J.J. Jewelry closed in 2006 citing international competition and market conditions. This means that everyone of you lucky enough to own a J.J. brooch is holding a desirable collector’s piece and the prices will only escalate in the future.
J.J. Jeweler Marks
Mark: J.J. was used c. 1970
Mark: Artifacts registered in 1986
Mark: Santa Fe pewter line of western animals
Examples of J.J. Pins and Brooches:
VINTAGE JJ CUTE LITTLE BOW WOW PUPPY DOG WITH TREAT IN HIS TUMMY PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 MASSIVE OLD TIMEY PROPELLER PROP PLANE PIN
VINTAGE JJ CRUISE SHIP WITH SUNGLASSES* CAMERA* PASSPORT* PALMTREE* LUGGAGE DANGLY CHARMS PIN
VINTAGE JJ *REALLY COOL* TWO TONE VASE OF DAISIES PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 IGUANA LIZARD GECKO ON LEAFY BRANCH PEWTER PIN
VINTAGE JJ LITTLE COPPER LEPRACHAN SITTING ON A TOADSTOOL PIN TACK
VINTAGE JJ RHINESTONE DOUBLE MUSICAL NOTE "CHORD" MUSIC PIN
VINTAGE JJ FABULOUSLY MASSIVE SWIMIING ANGELFISH IN THE SEAWEED PIN
Enjoy your search for fabulous and wonderful J.J. pins and brooches!!!!
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. J.J. Jewelry (Jonette Jewelry Company) is the third in the series. To buy or sell J.J. or any other collectible costume or fine jewelry, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Why J.J. Jewelry????
Why have I included J.J. jewelry among the more prestigious jewelry makers… because in these hard economic times the wonderful vintage and new J.J. pins and brooches are affordable, relevant and fun. If you love fantasy and whimsy, J.J. pins are delightful and fanciful. There scale is always quite massive and the subject matter is always unusual with “tongue in cheek” chic!!!.
Jonette Jewelry Company was founded by Abraham Lisker in East Providence R.I. as The Providence Jewelry Company in 1935. The name was changed to Lisker & Lisker when Nathan Lisker (Abraham's Brother) joined the company. During World War II the Lisker & Lisker company closed their operations due to metal shortages as a result of the war effort. In 1953 the company was re-incorporated as Jonette Jewelry Company with the trademark J.J. The name “Jonette” was formed by combining parts of Lisker’s parents names (John & Etta).
The novelty pins that J.J. is so famous for came as a result of the popularity of J.J.’s earlier ballerina and mother of pearl figural pins.
The quality of the J.J. Jewelry has always been quite good and considered affordable. The finishes are very high quality and even after decades of wear the golden and silvery metal finishes hold up beautiful. The hardware and fittings are also more like the better quality jewelry than J.J.’s price competitors.
J.J. Jewelry has many collectors and up until their closing in 2006 were producing great brooches and pins including Christmas and figural themes. Personally, I've never seen a piece of J.J. jewelry I haven’t loved.
J.J. Jewelry closed in 2006 citing international competition and market conditions. This means that everyone of you lucky enough to own a J.J. brooch is holding a desirable collector’s piece and the prices will only escalate in the future.
J.J. Jeweler Marks
Mark: J.J. was used c. 1970
Mark: Artifacts registered in 1986
Mark: Santa Fe pewter line of western animals
Examples of J.J. Pins and Brooches:
VINTAGE JJ CUTE LITTLE BOW WOW PUPPY DOG WITH TREAT IN HIS TUMMY PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 MASSIVE OLD TIMEY PROPELLER PROP PLANE PIN
VINTAGE JJ CRUISE SHIP WITH SUNGLASSES* CAMERA* PASSPORT* PALMTREE* LUGGAGE DANGLY CHARMS PIN
VINTAGE JJ *REALLY COOL* TWO TONE VASE OF DAISIES PIN
VINTAGE JJ 1986 IGUANA LIZARD GECKO ON LEAFY BRANCH PEWTER PIN
VINTAGE JJ LITTLE COPPER LEPRACHAN SITTING ON A TOADSTOOL PIN TACK
VINTAGE JJ RHINESTONE DOUBLE MUSICAL NOTE "CHORD" MUSIC PIN
VINTAGE JJ FABULOUSLY MASSIVE SWIMIING ANGELFISH IN THE SEAWEED PIN
Enjoy your search for fabulous and wonderful J.J. pins and brooches!!!!
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
The Jewelry Designer Series – Coro & Corocraft
The Jewelry Designer Series – Coro & Corocraft
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. Coro, Corocraft and Coro Pegasus is the second in the series. To buy or sell Coro and any of the derivations throughout the years, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Coro History:
Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberger started their firm in 1901. Their early jewelry pieces were marked “CR”. They shortened the name to Coro in 1919. Their first retail venture was an accessories boutique in New York City and they realized very shortly that they not only were shrewd businessmen but had “a good eye” for design, style and quality. They hired very talented jewelry designers to produce their conceptual designs and to reflect their creative esthete. Up until now their manufacturing work was outsourced until finally in 1911 they purchased their own facility in Providence, RI. The company’s strength was its business plan and uncanny marketing techniques and at its zenith Coro employed over 3500 workers.
Cohn died in 1910, but the name remained Cohn & Rosenberger. Rosenberger died in 1957, & his son Gerald, who succeeded him, died in 1967.
In 1969 the family sold 51% of the Coro stock to Richton, Intl. Corp., who bought the remaining stock in 1970. Richton also owned the Oscar de la Renta brand. By 1979 all the Coro companies, except the Canadian company, were bankrupt. It was sold to a South American company in 1992 that also went bankrupt
Early Beginnings and Adolph Katz:
Adolph Katz’s career as Coro’s head designer, spanned nearly 40 years. Katz was responsible for reviewing the designs of more junior artists and deciding which would be made and introduced into the market. According to patent records, Katz was a remarkably talented and prolific designer, holding more jewelry design patents in his name than anyone else in the industry. Much of Coro’s incredible business success is attributable to Katz and Coro’s diverse, beautiful and imaginative jewelry lines are evidence of his enormous talent. It was Katz’s vision that defined Coro. Katz joined Coro in 1924. His rise through the company was meteoric as he became head designer and production manager in 1937, Vice President in 1948 and Executive Vice President in 1960. Katz’s career with Coro lasted from the 1930s through the 1970’s.
Adolph Katz was not only a talented designer and craftsman but an engineering genius. One of his most famous is the “duette” a pair of pins that were attached to a specially designed piece of hardware that allowed the pins to be worn together or separately. Other contributions include his gorgeous and massive multicolored rhinestones, glass cabochons and enamel work flowers, birds and “critter” brooches.
In the 1950’s, Adolph Katz oversaw the development of Coro’s “new” Vendome line that was sold in very exclusive department stores and was to replace Corocraft as Coro’s highest quality jewelry line. Under Katz’s supervision and the beautiful designs of Helen Marion were the main factors behind Vendome’s success in the 1960’s. The designs used the finest faceted crystals, imported rhinestones with clarity and brilliance and top quality metalwork combined in artistically expressive designs and is marked "Vendome".
Coro Designers
Among the well known jewelry designers who worked at Coro at some point in their careers were Gene Verecchio (Verri), who produced the celebrated “Quivering Camellia” line as well as many distinctively beautiful jewels made with faux “moonstone” multi-colored cabochons. Gene Verecchio designed for Coro from 1933to the end of the 1963 (he and his son Ron own Gem-Craft). It is believed by many that Gene Verri was the head designer under Adolph Katz’s managerial guidance and personally responsible for many of Coro's famous designs.
It is also believed that many of the patents developed by Verri were signed by Adolph Katz as only a representative of the company.
Charles E. Pauzat ~1939-1940
Oscar Placco ~1938-1945?
Robert Geissman ~1938
Carol McDonald ~1940
Marion Weeber ~1940-1941
Sidney Pearl ~1941
Lester Gaba ~1941
Victor di Mezza ~1950
Samples of Coro:
VINTAGE FISH SPINE GREY RHINESTONE LINK NECKLACE
VINTAGE CORO ARROW DESIGN TEXTURED LINK BRACELET EARRING DEMI
ANTIQUE FABULOUS CORO MAGIC MASSIVE PLASTIC & RHINESTONE DEMI
VINTAGE CORO HERALDIC SHEILD CROWN SWORDS CLOISONNE KNIGHT IN SHINING ARMOR PIN
VINTAGE CORO DESIGN PATENT PENDING RHINESTONE WILTED LILIES FLOWER PIN
VINTAGE CORO COPYRIGHT AQUAMARINE RHINESTONE FOLDED DESIGN PIN
VINTAGE CORO ROSES ON A VINE MASSIVE GOLDEN PIN
VINTAGE CORO PEGASUS PINKY BLUE AURORA BOREALIS RHINESTONE MASSIVE TULIP PIN
Despite this roster of talent, most Coro jewelry is not individually marked with the designer's name and is only marked as the work of the company. As a result, Coro came to be known for a certain design aesthetic that was largely correlated with the designs that Adolph Katz chose to commission for the company. The company made a wide variety of pieces from figural to floral, and they developed different lines marketed at different price ranges but always with recognizable quality. Coro created these different lines to market to consumers in different income brackets, and they created distribution networks for the jewelry that would maintain this segmentation of jewelry lines and the type of stores that could carry it. Some of their higher end lines were made of sterling silver or sterling silver with a fine gold vermeil finish. Vendome was the company's high end line, a shrewd marketing move since by the mid-20th century the Coro mark had become associated with more of a mass market line of costume jewelry
Jewelry Signatures, Marks and Designs For Coro (listed in alphabetical order)
The list of marks for Coro and all of its many lines is almost endless.
A general “Rule Of Thumb” is if Copyright Symbol is present, your piece shows the copyright dates to after 1955. Many jewelry manufacturers switched from patents to copyrights around this time. The copyright number is linked to a particular year in which it was made (you can find these numbers and dates online). Following are the many marks used by Coro over the years:
Mark: C and R from 1922
Mark: flying horse-Pegasus- mark used alone-no name 1939
Mark: 47 West 1965
Mark: A Coro Original -- script 1947
Mark: A MASTERPIECE OF FASHION JEWELRY 1943
Mark: Ajusta 1948
Mark: Alice-In-Wonderland Dec. 1933
Mark: Almanac of Life 1954
Mark: Americana 1936
Mark: Ancestral 1930
Mark: Andre' 1937
Mark: Andre' hair fashions 1937
Mark: ANDREE RUPERT JEWELRY (on fancy barbell) 1937
Mark: Arista 1954
Mark: Aristocrat 1950
Mark: As you Like It 1939
Mark: Atomic 1945
Mark: Black Beauty 1946
Mark: Blithe Blossom 1956
Mark: Blue Danube 1929
Mark: Calypso 1957
Mark: Carracca 1940
Mark: Cellini(script)
Mark: Charmers 1959
Mark: Chatter Pins 1948
Mark: Cherubin 1956
Mark: Churchill Downs 1960
Mark: Cleopatra 1959
Mark: Clip-Ease 1941
Mark: Cloud-drift `950
Mark: Cocktail Set 1947
Mark: Collegiate 1940
Mark: Color a la Carte 1959
Mark: Colorama 1954
Mark: Colossus of Rhodes, Greece, Coro
Mark: Constellation 1946
Mark: Contessa 1952
Mark: Coquette 1948
Mark: Corel 1971
Mark: Coro hangtag
Mark: Coro(script at angle) 1919
Mark: Pegasus figure 1939
Mark: Pegasus figure beside empty rectangle 1945
Mark: Coro with "R" inside a square
Mark: Coro-script-no angle-different font 1919
Mark: Coro, Des. Pat. Pend.
Mark: Foil tag
Mark: Coro (scrip at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1945
Mark: After 1955
Mark: Coro - heavier Script at angle -- 1940
Mark: CORO, Inc.
Mark: April Daisy, White Sapphire, Coro - pre-1955
Mark: CORO-CLAD 1965
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle, Pegasus beside) 1938
Mark: Corocraft(script at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1933--1979; [sterling prior to 1950]
Mark: Coro Craft-both in script-tall script 1935
Mark: Corocraft in script
Mark: CoroCraft Sterling with flying Pegasus
Mark: Coro Craft Sterling
Mark: Coro Creations by Francois 1937
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette Pat. No. 1798867
Mark: Coro Elegante-different font 1944
Mark: Coro Fashion Watches 1958 (first "o" has a watch face)
Mark: CORO-KLAD 1965
Mark: Coro (script) Radiance (all on square tag) 1932
Mark: Coro Silvo
Mark: Coro Supreme-script-different font --1943
Mark: Coro-Teens 1940
Mark: Hand-Made by Coro, STERLING CRAFT (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Corochrome --1957
Mark: Corograms--1922
Mark: Corolite (in a circle) 1923
Mark: Corolite
Mark: Coro Magic -script 1960
Mark: Coro Mexico -- 1943 -- 1950 Coro contracted Taller Borda Silversmiths, owned by H. Aquilar
Mark: CORONATION 1965
Mark: Coro Originals(delicate script) 1947
Mark: Coro Silver in circle shape with MEX inside.
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Sterling
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Ster.
Mark: Coro Teens
Mark: Coroteens-script 1951
Mark: Corotots -- script at an angle 1941
Mark: Court Jester 1955
Mark: Crowing Glory script with crowa a-top the "C" & "G" 1965
Mark: CZARINA 1950
Mark: Daily Double 1951
Mark: Day and Night 1940
Mark: Debutante(italics) 1935
Mark: Debutante 1935
Mark: Deamboat (script) 1959
Mark: Duette 1929;
Mark: Ear Charmers 1956
Mark: Electra Trisemble 1931
Mark: Elegante' script 1948
Mark: Elite(script) 1948
Mark: EMPRESS EUGENIE(straight print-other companies also used variation of this) 1930
Mark: Fashion Flair(script) 1957
Mark: Fashion Square 1931
Mark: Fashionata(script) 1960
Mark: Fire Bird 1963
Mark: FLUID LOOK 1959
Mark: FLUTTERBYS 1963
Mark: for that priceless look 1944
Mark: Francois(script) 1937 - c. 1960
Mark: Futura 1953
Mark: Futurama 1953
Mark: Galaxy 1949
Mark: Giftpak 1953
Mark: Glamor 1940
Mark: Glamour(script) 1941; renewed in 1976, now dead
Mark: Glamourcraft (script) 1958
Mark: Glitter Bobs(script) 1956
Mark: Golden Rod script 1926
Mark: Grandeur (script) 1950
Mark: GROTTO BLUE 1926
Mark: Harlequin 1928
Mark: Hi Jinks by Coro( on a bar-bell-like mark) 1940
Mark: Imperial Bouquet 1931
Mark: Jewelcraft 1920; mark now owned by Gem-Craft Quick
Mark: Jewelcraft(at angle) 1920; was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelcraft England was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelfully Yours 1947
Mark: Jewels by Francois (Francois in script) 1937
Mark: Jingle Jangle 1958
Mark: Jingle Rings 1958
Mark: La Belle 1963
Mark: Liberty 1934
Mark: Lovable (script) 1057
Mark: Love-Link 1934
Mark: Love Locket 1953
Mark: Lucky Buck (script) 1959
Mark: Lustralite (script) 1950
Mark: Made in Canada -- pieces made in Coro's Canadian factory were marked such. They were made for Birks, but were probably sold in other major department stores. not all pieces marked "Made in Canada" are Coro.
Mark: Made in Mexico---- Hector Aguilar --1943 to 1950 words inside a circle: around the top
Mark: Magic Eye (script) 1938
Mark: MAGICLIP straight letters 1950
Mark: Magi-Clip script 1960
Mark: Mah Jongg 1923
Mark: Maharani Mid-Eastern look print 1935
Mark: Maharani script 1937
Mark: MAMIE 1952
Mark: Mantelet Medieval print 1949
Mark: Memories of Life (script) 1954
Mark: Meringue 1942
Mark: Metalite (script) 1929
Mark: Millionears script 1949
Mark: Moonbeam by Coro 1941
Mark: Moonbeam 1956
Mark: Moonrays 1956
Mark: Music Box 1923
Mark: Night Owls 1944
Mark: Norseland 1940's
Mark: Our Little Darling 1946
Mark: PADDOCH by Coro ( on a bar-bell) 1941
Mark: PAINT-BOX 1937
Mark: Paragon (script) 1946
Mark: PERSONETTES 1950
Mark: Pinafore
Mark: Prestige (script) 1948
Mark: Queen Bees 1943
Mark: Quick-Trik
Mark: Quintette (script) 1938
Mark: Quivering Camellia (script) 1939
Mark: Rambling Roses (script) 1944
Mark: Rapture by Coro (on shield) 1942
Mark: Raven 1963
Mark: Regala (script) 1948
Mark: Romantic 1931
Mark: Round The Clock 1956
Mark: SCINTILLA 1933
Mark: Smart Set (script) 1935
Mark: Smart Set (block print)
Mark: Soda Set (script) (pic of a soda w/straw beside) 1957
Mark: Soft-touch (script) 1959
Mark: Southern Belle (script) 1940
Mark: Splendor (script) 1948
Mark: STERLING CRAFT, Hand-Made by Coro (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Sterling Craft by Coro (inside oval set side-ways, "Sterling Craft" around top, "by Coro" around bottom)
Mark: Sterling S. Coro
Mark: Stocking Stuffer 1957
Mark: Styled to Beautify script 1938
Mark: Sublime (script) 1948
Mark: SUNBEAM 1927
Mark: SUN-KISSED 1929
Mark: Supreme (script) (written at angle) 1948
Mark: Teen-O-Grams 1958
Mark: TEMPLE BELLS 1964
Mark: Tempt Me 1963
Mark: The Angel of Love 1952
Mark: The Avenue 1925
Mark: Thoroughbreds 1942
Mark: Tickled Pink (script) written at angle 1958
Mark: Travelogue 1957
Mark: Trio Tricks 1951
Mark: TRIQUETTE 1937
Mark: TWEEDBEADS 1960
Mark: Twin Tones 1954
Mark: Valiant 1948
Mark: Vanity Fair 1945
Mark: Vendome 1944 -- 1970
Mark: Vendome with copyright, after 1955
Mark: H-A© Vendome
Mark: Wafer 1935
Mark: Whirlaway 1949
Mark: Wood Nymph 1963
Mark: Worn The Most From Coast to Coast 1940
To BUY or SELL Coro, Corocraft, Coro Pegasus, Vendome and other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. Coro, Corocraft and Coro Pegasus is the second in the series. To buy or sell Coro and any of the derivations throughout the years, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Coro History:
Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberger started their firm in 1901. Their early jewelry pieces were marked “CR”. They shortened the name to Coro in 1919. Their first retail venture was an accessories boutique in New York City and they realized very shortly that they not only were shrewd businessmen but had “a good eye” for design, style and quality. They hired very talented jewelry designers to produce their conceptual designs and to reflect their creative esthete. Up until now their manufacturing work was outsourced until finally in 1911 they purchased their own facility in Providence, RI. The company’s strength was its business plan and uncanny marketing techniques and at its zenith Coro employed over 3500 workers.
Cohn died in 1910, but the name remained Cohn & Rosenberger. Rosenberger died in 1957, & his son Gerald, who succeeded him, died in 1967.
In 1969 the family sold 51% of the Coro stock to Richton, Intl. Corp., who bought the remaining stock in 1970. Richton also owned the Oscar de la Renta brand. By 1979 all the Coro companies, except the Canadian company, were bankrupt. It was sold to a South American company in 1992 that also went bankrupt
Early Beginnings and Adolph Katz:
Adolph Katz’s career as Coro’s head designer, spanned nearly 40 years. Katz was responsible for reviewing the designs of more junior artists and deciding which would be made and introduced into the market. According to patent records, Katz was a remarkably talented and prolific designer, holding more jewelry design patents in his name than anyone else in the industry. Much of Coro’s incredible business success is attributable to Katz and Coro’s diverse, beautiful and imaginative jewelry lines are evidence of his enormous talent. It was Katz’s vision that defined Coro. Katz joined Coro in 1924. His rise through the company was meteoric as he became head designer and production manager in 1937, Vice President in 1948 and Executive Vice President in 1960. Katz’s career with Coro lasted from the 1930s through the 1970’s.
Adolph Katz was not only a talented designer and craftsman but an engineering genius. One of his most famous is the “duette” a pair of pins that were attached to a specially designed piece of hardware that allowed the pins to be worn together or separately. Other contributions include his gorgeous and massive multicolored rhinestones, glass cabochons and enamel work flowers, birds and “critter” brooches.
In the 1950’s, Adolph Katz oversaw the development of Coro’s “new” Vendome line that was sold in very exclusive department stores and was to replace Corocraft as Coro’s highest quality jewelry line. Under Katz’s supervision and the beautiful designs of Helen Marion were the main factors behind Vendome’s success in the 1960’s. The designs used the finest faceted crystals, imported rhinestones with clarity and brilliance and top quality metalwork combined in artistically expressive designs and is marked "Vendome".
Coro Designers
Among the well known jewelry designers who worked at Coro at some point in their careers were Gene Verecchio (Verri), who produced the celebrated “Quivering Camellia” line as well as many distinctively beautiful jewels made with faux “moonstone” multi-colored cabochons. Gene Verecchio designed for Coro from 1933to the end of the 1963 (he and his son Ron own Gem-Craft). It is believed by many that Gene Verri was the head designer under Adolph Katz’s managerial guidance and personally responsible for many of Coro's famous designs.
It is also believed that many of the patents developed by Verri were signed by Adolph Katz as only a representative of the company.
Charles E. Pauzat ~1939-1940
Oscar Placco ~1938-1945?
Robert Geissman ~1938
Carol McDonald ~1940
Marion Weeber ~1940-1941
Sidney Pearl ~1941
Lester Gaba ~1941
Victor di Mezza ~1950
Samples of Coro:
VINTAGE FISH SPINE GREY RHINESTONE LINK NECKLACE
VINTAGE CORO ARROW DESIGN TEXTURED LINK BRACELET EARRING DEMI
ANTIQUE FABULOUS CORO MAGIC MASSIVE PLASTIC & RHINESTONE DEMI
VINTAGE CORO HERALDIC SHEILD CROWN SWORDS CLOISONNE KNIGHT IN SHINING ARMOR PIN
VINTAGE CORO DESIGN PATENT PENDING RHINESTONE WILTED LILIES FLOWER PIN
VINTAGE CORO COPYRIGHT AQUAMARINE RHINESTONE FOLDED DESIGN PIN
VINTAGE CORO ROSES ON A VINE MASSIVE GOLDEN PIN
VINTAGE CORO PEGASUS PINKY BLUE AURORA BOREALIS RHINESTONE MASSIVE TULIP PIN
Despite this roster of talent, most Coro jewelry is not individually marked with the designer's name and is only marked as the work of the company. As a result, Coro came to be known for a certain design aesthetic that was largely correlated with the designs that Adolph Katz chose to commission for the company. The company made a wide variety of pieces from figural to floral, and they developed different lines marketed at different price ranges but always with recognizable quality. Coro created these different lines to market to consumers in different income brackets, and they created distribution networks for the jewelry that would maintain this segmentation of jewelry lines and the type of stores that could carry it. Some of their higher end lines were made of sterling silver or sterling silver with a fine gold vermeil finish. Vendome was the company's high end line, a shrewd marketing move since by the mid-20th century the Coro mark had become associated with more of a mass market line of costume jewelry
Jewelry Signatures, Marks and Designs For Coro (listed in alphabetical order)
The list of marks for Coro and all of its many lines is almost endless.
A general “Rule Of Thumb” is if Copyright Symbol is present, your piece shows the copyright dates to after 1955. Many jewelry manufacturers switched from patents to copyrights around this time. The copyright number is linked to a particular year in which it was made (you can find these numbers and dates online). Following are the many marks used by Coro over the years:
Mark: C and R from 1922
Mark: flying horse-Pegasus- mark used alone-no name 1939
Mark: 47 West 1965
Mark: A Coro Original -- script 1947
Mark: A MASTERPIECE OF FASHION JEWELRY 1943
Mark: Ajusta 1948
Mark: Alice-In-Wonderland Dec. 1933
Mark: Almanac of Life 1954
Mark: Americana 1936
Mark: Ancestral 1930
Mark: Andre' 1937
Mark: Andre' hair fashions 1937
Mark: ANDREE RUPERT JEWELRY (on fancy barbell) 1937
Mark: Arista 1954
Mark: Aristocrat 1950
Mark: As you Like It 1939
Mark: Atomic 1945
Mark: Black Beauty 1946
Mark: Blithe Blossom 1956
Mark: Blue Danube 1929
Mark: Calypso 1957
Mark: Carracca 1940
Mark: Cellini(script)
Mark: Charmers 1959
Mark: Chatter Pins 1948
Mark: Cherubin 1956
Mark: Churchill Downs 1960
Mark: Cleopatra 1959
Mark: Clip-Ease 1941
Mark: Cloud-drift `950
Mark: Cocktail Set 1947
Mark: Collegiate 1940
Mark: Color a la Carte 1959
Mark: Colorama 1954
Mark: Colossus of Rhodes, Greece, Coro
Mark: Constellation 1946
Mark: Contessa 1952
Mark: Coquette 1948
Mark: Corel 1971
Mark: Coro hangtag
Mark: Coro(script at angle) 1919
Mark: Pegasus figure 1939
Mark: Pegasus figure beside empty rectangle 1945
Mark: Coro with "R" inside a square
Mark: Coro-script-no angle-different font 1919
Mark: Coro, Des. Pat. Pend.
Mark: Foil tag
Mark: Coro (scrip at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1945
Mark: After 1955
Mark: Coro - heavier Script at angle -- 1940
Mark: CORO, Inc.
Mark: April Daisy, White Sapphire, Coro - pre-1955
Mark: CORO-CLAD 1965
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle, Pegasus beside) 1938
Mark: Corocraft(script at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1933--1979; [sterling prior to 1950]
Mark: Coro Craft-both in script-tall script 1935
Mark: Corocraft in script
Mark: CoroCraft Sterling with flying Pegasus
Mark: Coro Craft Sterling
Mark: Coro Creations by Francois 1937
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette Pat. No. 1798867
Mark: Coro Elegante-different font 1944
Mark: Coro Fashion Watches 1958 (first "o" has a watch face)
Mark: CORO-KLAD 1965
Mark: Coro (script) Radiance (all on square tag) 1932
Mark: Coro Silvo
Mark: Coro Supreme-script-different font --1943
Mark: Coro-Teens 1940
Mark: Hand-Made by Coro, STERLING CRAFT (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Corochrome --1957
Mark: Corograms--1922
Mark: Corolite (in a circle) 1923
Mark: Corolite
Mark: Coro Magic -script 1960
Mark: Coro Mexico -- 1943 -- 1950 Coro contracted Taller Borda Silversmiths, owned by H. Aquilar
Mark: CORONATION 1965
Mark: Coro Originals(delicate script) 1947
Mark: Coro Silver in circle shape with MEX inside.
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Sterling
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Ster.
Mark: Coro Teens
Mark: Coroteens-script 1951
Mark: Corotots -- script at an angle 1941
Mark: Court Jester 1955
Mark: Crowing Glory script with crowa a-top the "C" & "G" 1965
Mark: CZARINA 1950
Mark: Daily Double 1951
Mark: Day and Night 1940
Mark: Debutante(italics) 1935
Mark: Debutante 1935
Mark: Deamboat (script) 1959
Mark: Duette 1929;
Mark: Ear Charmers 1956
Mark: Electra Trisemble 1931
Mark: Elegante' script 1948
Mark: Elite(script) 1948
Mark: EMPRESS EUGENIE(straight print-other companies also used variation of this) 1930
Mark: Fashion Flair(script) 1957
Mark: Fashion Square 1931
Mark: Fashionata(script) 1960
Mark: Fire Bird 1963
Mark: FLUID LOOK 1959
Mark: FLUTTERBYS 1963
Mark: for that priceless look 1944
Mark: Francois(script) 1937 - c. 1960
Mark: Futura 1953
Mark: Futurama 1953
Mark: Galaxy 1949
Mark: Giftpak 1953
Mark: Glamor 1940
Mark: Glamour(script) 1941; renewed in 1976, now dead
Mark: Glamourcraft (script) 1958
Mark: Glitter Bobs(script) 1956
Mark: Golden Rod script 1926
Mark: Grandeur (script) 1950
Mark: GROTTO BLUE 1926
Mark: Harlequin 1928
Mark: Hi Jinks by Coro( on a bar-bell-like mark) 1940
Mark: Imperial Bouquet 1931
Mark: Jewelcraft 1920; mark now owned by Gem-Craft Quick
Mark: Jewelcraft(at angle) 1920; was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelcraft England was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelfully Yours 1947
Mark: Jewels by Francois (Francois in script) 1937
Mark: Jingle Jangle 1958
Mark: Jingle Rings 1958
Mark: La Belle 1963
Mark: Liberty 1934
Mark: Lovable (script) 1057
Mark: Love-Link 1934
Mark: Love Locket 1953
Mark: Lucky Buck (script) 1959
Mark: Lustralite (script) 1950
Mark: Made in Canada -- pieces made in Coro's Canadian factory were marked such. They were made for Birks, but were probably sold in other major department stores. not all pieces marked "Made in Canada" are Coro.
Mark: Made in Mexico---- Hector Aguilar --1943 to 1950 words inside a circle: around the top
Mark: Magic Eye (script) 1938
Mark: MAGICLIP straight letters 1950
Mark: Magi-Clip script 1960
Mark: Mah Jongg 1923
Mark: Maharani Mid-Eastern look print 1935
Mark: Maharani script 1937
Mark: MAMIE 1952
Mark: Mantelet Medieval print 1949
Mark: Memories of Life (script) 1954
Mark: Meringue 1942
Mark: Metalite (script) 1929
Mark: Millionears script 1949
Mark: Moonbeam by Coro 1941
Mark: Moonbeam 1956
Mark: Moonrays 1956
Mark: Music Box 1923
Mark: Night Owls 1944
Mark: Norseland 1940's
Mark: Our Little Darling 1946
Mark: PADDOCH by Coro ( on a bar-bell) 1941
Mark: PAINT-BOX 1937
Mark: Paragon (script) 1946
Mark: PERSONETTES 1950
Mark: Pinafore
Mark: Prestige (script) 1948
Mark: Queen Bees 1943
Mark: Quick-Trik
Mark: Quintette (script) 1938
Mark: Quivering Camellia (script) 1939
Mark: Rambling Roses (script) 1944
Mark: Rapture by Coro (on shield) 1942
Mark: Raven 1963
Mark: Regala (script) 1948
Mark: Romantic 1931
Mark: Round The Clock 1956
Mark: SCINTILLA 1933
Mark: Smart Set (script) 1935
Mark: Smart Set (block print)
Mark: Soda Set (script) (pic of a soda w/straw beside) 1957
Mark: Soft-touch (script) 1959
Mark: Southern Belle (script) 1940
Mark: Splendor (script) 1948
Mark: STERLING CRAFT, Hand-Made by Coro (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Sterling Craft by Coro (inside oval set side-ways, "Sterling Craft" around top, "by Coro" around bottom)
Mark: Sterling S. Coro
Mark: Stocking Stuffer 1957
Mark: Styled to Beautify script 1938
Mark: Sublime (script) 1948
Mark: SUNBEAM 1927
Mark: SUN-KISSED 1929
Mark: Supreme (script) (written at angle) 1948
Mark: Teen-O-Grams 1958
Mark: TEMPLE BELLS 1964
Mark: Tempt Me 1963
Mark: The Angel of Love 1952
Mark: The Avenue 1925
Mark: Thoroughbreds 1942
Mark: Tickled Pink (script) written at angle 1958
Mark: Travelogue 1957
Mark: Trio Tricks 1951
Mark: TRIQUETTE 1937
Mark: TWEEDBEADS 1960
Mark: Twin Tones 1954
Mark: Valiant 1948
Mark: Vanity Fair 1945
Mark: Vendome 1944 -- 1970
Mark: Vendome with copyright, after 1955
Mark: H-A© Vendome
Mark: Wafer 1935
Mark: Whirlaway 1949
Mark: Wood Nymph 1963
Mark: Worn The Most From Coast to Coast 1940
To BUY or SELL Coro, Corocraft, Coro Pegasus, Vendome and other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.
The Jewelry Designer Series - Trifari and Crown Trifari
The Jewelry Designer Series - Crown Trifari
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. Each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution to “beautifying the world”. Trifari and Crown Trifari is the first in the series. To buy or sell Trifari and Crown Trifari please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Trifari & Crown Trifari
Most of the better costume jewelry manufacturers tried to create gorgeous jewelry designs using the best rhinestones and sets, metal finishes, hardware and fittings to best duplicate the look of the finest jewelry in the world for a fraction of the cost. Trifari and Crown Trifari was one of the few companies that achieved this feat and has become one of the most desirable collectibles in the costume jewelry market. Part of Trifari's enduring success has been built upon the glamorous clientele and prestigious publicity. More recently, Madonna wore Trifari in the Hollywood movie, Evita.
Early Beginnings:
Trifari was first known as "Trifari and Trifari", founded by Gustavo Trifari and his uncle in 1910 in New York City. When Gustavo's uncle left a couple of years later the company was known as just Trifari. Leo Krussman joined Trifari in 1917 and in 1925, Carl Fishel joined the company as head of sales. They renamed the company Trifari, Krussman and Fishel and their hallmark became KTF. Unfortunately due to lack of having a great jewelry designer on staff, the designs were less than exciting and somewhat underwhelming as compared to what was found in the fine jewelry market.
The entire jewelry market, fine and costume alike, were affected by the stock market crash of 1929. The fine jewelers had a hard time keeping their doors open and reduced their staffs to reduce costs. Many fine jewelry designers found work for the major costume jewelry manufacturers and thus started the beginning of how Trifari came to the forefront of jewelry design. Much of Trifari's success was due to the Frenchman, Alfred Philippe, who joined the company as its chief designer in 1930. Trifari produced outstanding jewelry in heavy sterling silver, often with luxurious vermeil (gold plate over silver). Trifanium, a non-tarnishing gold-finish alloy was named after the company.
Alfred Philippe
Alfred Philippe was a premier designer who worked in the fine jewelry segment for such famous firms as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. It was under Phillipe’s design direction that over the next few years, Trifari was turned completely around. His designs during the Art Deco period (1920-1935) became very popular. Due to the cost of the less expensive materials, Phillipe had the freedom to completely express his design esthete and created what today is considered Trifari’s “Golden Age” of jewelry design. His pieces were massive, decadent and embellished and resembled fine jewelry more than most fine jewelry did.
Alfred Philippe’s artistry was unequaled throughout the 1940’s and no designer had more influence on costume jewelry. During his reign at Trifari he created what has come to be known as “fruit salad” or “tutti frutti” and involved the use of many multiple cut and color rhinestones and crystals in his designs. His more serious and elegant pieces used clear rhinestones paved on delicate yet massive designs taken from nature such as his leafy spray pieces and massive flowers. Later he moved from the molded and faceted glass sets to lucite and created “jelly belly” designs of animals and birds and which are some of the most collectible costume jewelry to this day. As economic times brightened, Philippe used sterling silver instead of a base metal, as his cast pieces and the jewelry was signed Trifari Sterling and Des. Pat. Pend. Most all of Alfred Philippe’s pieces are sought by the fine designer costume jewelry collector and carry prices of $100’s and even $1000’s.
Philippe’s success continued throughout the 1930’s and up until 1966. Trifari brought in other known designers to continue the great reputation received as a result of Philippe’s collaboration.
Trifari Designers
Alfred Spaney (Late 1930s to 1940s) who created fabulous rhinestone studded animal pins
David Mir (1930s and 1940s) who created rhinestone embellished bow pins
Norman Bel Geddes (1940) American theatrical and industrial designer who focused on aerodynamics and his designs reflected this penchant.
Joseph Wuyts (1940) who did a whole red, white and blue enamel & rhinestone pin collection
Benedetto Panetta from Naples, Italy was a chief model maker and designer at Trifari before opening his own shop. Panetta produced fantastic jewelry, designs carved into metal with heavy sterling silver, silver plating, gold plating, and white metal backings. His jewelry was prong-set, hand-set, un-foiled, and contained exquisite details ranging from high quality rhinestones, simulated stones and pearls encrusted in Art Deco styles to the designing of enamel figural designs.
Jean Paris (1958-1965)
Andre Boeut (1967-1979)
Diane Love (1971-1974) her love affair with ancient things using artifacts worked into stunning jewelry pieces brought Trifari an unusual “edge” to their more traditional lines.
Jonathan Bailey (1970s) used a complicated lost wax process, Jonathan sculpted jewelry in the shapes of crabs, oysters, workboats, skipjacks and rockfish.
Marcella Saltz (1980s-1990s) created more contemporary executions and finishing of ancient and antique design elements.
Signatures & Marks For Trifari
Jewels by TRIFARI(crown over T in Trifari 1920) "used as label"
Gainsborough (1932) "printed version used to ID collection"
KTF (mark first in use 1935) "on metal"
KTF. (taller T than other letters) 1935 "on metal"
CLIP-MATES (1936) "used as label"
TRIFARI (without the crown above T) "first used 1937 on metal"
(CROWN) TRIFARI (with crown above the T) "first used in 1939 on metal
Orientique by TRIFARI (1950) "Used as label to identify collection"
Ear-Mates (signed in script 1953) "used as label"
T (T hang tag with open detailed crown on top 1954) "metal hang tag on item"
KTF (crown over T 1954) "used to ID KTF Industrial Products"
TIE-UPS (1957) "used as label"
Tie-Ups by TRIFARI (Tie-Ups in script and crown over T in Trifari 1957) "used as label"
Triege by TRIFARI (Triege in script with crown over T in Trifari 1958) "Label used to ID collection"
By Date:
1920 - Jewels by TRIFARI with the crown over T in Trifari - used as a label
1932 - Gainsborough - the printed version was used to ID collections
1935 - KTF ? used on metal"
1935 - KTF. With a taller T than other letters & used on metal
1936 - CLIP-MATES used as a label
1937 - TRIFARI without the crown above T - used on metal
1939 - TRIFARI with crown above the T - used on metal
1950 - Orientique by TRIFARI - used as label to identify collection
Trifari Jewelry Designs Timeline
Gainsborough 1932
Jewels of Tanjore 1945
Talisman 1946
Moghul 1949
Scheherazade 1949
Day and Night 1949
Orientique by Trifari 1950
Gems of India 1951
Coronation Jewels 1952
L'Opera 1952
Evening Star 1954
Pins à la Mode 1958
Triege by Trifari 1958
Sorrento 1959
Etoile 1959
Fantasia by Trifari 1960
The Jewels of India 1965
Trifari's Fireworks 1966
L' Orient 1968
Trifari Light 1968
White Enamel Collection 1969
Ming Collection 1972
Diane Love Collection 1972
Trifari Ownership:
Founders and sons of founders of Trifari (1910 to 1975)
Hallmark Jewelry Co. (1975 to 1988)
Crystal Brands (1988 to 1994)
Chase Capital Partners, a
Lattice Holding Co., a division of the Monet Group (1994 to 2000)
Monet Group, was purchased by Liz Claiborne in (July 2000)
Liz Claiborne moved operations to Puerto Rico soon after purchase!
Trifari, Mosell, and Marvella Jewelry are now off shore operations.
To BUY or SELL Trifari, Crown Trifari, Alfred Philippe, or any other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.
The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. Each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution to “beautifying the world”. Trifari and Crown Trifari is the first in the series. To buy or sell Trifari and Crown Trifari please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.
Trifari & Crown Trifari
Most of the better costume jewelry manufacturers tried to create gorgeous jewelry designs using the best rhinestones and sets, metal finishes, hardware and fittings to best duplicate the look of the finest jewelry in the world for a fraction of the cost. Trifari and Crown Trifari was one of the few companies that achieved this feat and has become one of the most desirable collectibles in the costume jewelry market. Part of Trifari's enduring success has been built upon the glamorous clientele and prestigious publicity. More recently, Madonna wore Trifari in the Hollywood movie, Evita.
Early Beginnings:
Trifari was first known as "Trifari and Trifari", founded by Gustavo Trifari and his uncle in 1910 in New York City. When Gustavo's uncle left a couple of years later the company was known as just Trifari. Leo Krussman joined Trifari in 1917 and in 1925, Carl Fishel joined the company as head of sales. They renamed the company Trifari, Krussman and Fishel and their hallmark became KTF. Unfortunately due to lack of having a great jewelry designer on staff, the designs were less than exciting and somewhat underwhelming as compared to what was found in the fine jewelry market.
The entire jewelry market, fine and costume alike, were affected by the stock market crash of 1929. The fine jewelers had a hard time keeping their doors open and reduced their staffs to reduce costs. Many fine jewelry designers found work for the major costume jewelry manufacturers and thus started the beginning of how Trifari came to the forefront of jewelry design. Much of Trifari's success was due to the Frenchman, Alfred Philippe, who joined the company as its chief designer in 1930. Trifari produced outstanding jewelry in heavy sterling silver, often with luxurious vermeil (gold plate over silver). Trifanium, a non-tarnishing gold-finish alloy was named after the company.
Alfred Philippe
Alfred Philippe was a premier designer who worked in the fine jewelry segment for such famous firms as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. It was under Phillipe’s design direction that over the next few years, Trifari was turned completely around. His designs during the Art Deco period (1920-1935) became very popular. Due to the cost of the less expensive materials, Phillipe had the freedom to completely express his design esthete and created what today is considered Trifari’s “Golden Age” of jewelry design. His pieces were massive, decadent and embellished and resembled fine jewelry more than most fine jewelry did.
Alfred Philippe’s artistry was unequaled throughout the 1940’s and no designer had more influence on costume jewelry. During his reign at Trifari he created what has come to be known as “fruit salad” or “tutti frutti” and involved the use of many multiple cut and color rhinestones and crystals in his designs. His more serious and elegant pieces used clear rhinestones paved on delicate yet massive designs taken from nature such as his leafy spray pieces and massive flowers. Later he moved from the molded and faceted glass sets to lucite and created “jelly belly” designs of animals and birds and which are some of the most collectible costume jewelry to this day. As economic times brightened, Philippe used sterling silver instead of a base metal, as his cast pieces and the jewelry was signed Trifari Sterling and Des. Pat. Pend. Most all of Alfred Philippe’s pieces are sought by the fine designer costume jewelry collector and carry prices of $100’s and even $1000’s.
Philippe’s success continued throughout the 1930’s and up until 1966. Trifari brought in other known designers to continue the great reputation received as a result of Philippe’s collaboration.
Trifari Designers
Alfred Spaney (Late 1930s to 1940s) who created fabulous rhinestone studded animal pins
David Mir (1930s and 1940s) who created rhinestone embellished bow pins
Norman Bel Geddes (1940) American theatrical and industrial designer who focused on aerodynamics and his designs reflected this penchant.
Joseph Wuyts (1940) who did a whole red, white and blue enamel & rhinestone pin collection
Benedetto Panetta from Naples, Italy was a chief model maker and designer at Trifari before opening his own shop. Panetta produced fantastic jewelry, designs carved into metal with heavy sterling silver, silver plating, gold plating, and white metal backings. His jewelry was prong-set, hand-set, un-foiled, and contained exquisite details ranging from high quality rhinestones, simulated stones and pearls encrusted in Art Deco styles to the designing of enamel figural designs.
Jean Paris (1958-1965)
Andre Boeut (1967-1979)
Diane Love (1971-1974) her love affair with ancient things using artifacts worked into stunning jewelry pieces brought Trifari an unusual “edge” to their more traditional lines.
Jonathan Bailey (1970s) used a complicated lost wax process, Jonathan sculpted jewelry in the shapes of crabs, oysters, workboats, skipjacks and rockfish.
Marcella Saltz (1980s-1990s) created more contemporary executions and finishing of ancient and antique design elements.
Signatures & Marks For Trifari
Jewels by TRIFARI(crown over T in Trifari 1920) "used as label"
Gainsborough (1932) "printed version used to ID collection"
KTF (mark first in use 1935) "on metal"
KTF. (taller T than other letters) 1935 "on metal"
CLIP-MATES (1936) "used as label"
TRIFARI (without the crown above T) "first used 1937 on metal"
(CROWN) TRIFARI (with crown above the T) "first used in 1939 on metal
Orientique by TRIFARI (1950) "Used as label to identify collection"
Ear-Mates (signed in script 1953) "used as label"
T (T hang tag with open detailed crown on top 1954) "metal hang tag on item"
KTF (crown over T 1954) "used to ID KTF Industrial Products"
TIE-UPS (1957) "used as label"
Tie-Ups by TRIFARI (Tie-Ups in script and crown over T in Trifari 1957) "used as label"
Triege by TRIFARI (Triege in script with crown over T in Trifari 1958) "Label used to ID collection"
By Date:
1920 - Jewels by TRIFARI with the crown over T in Trifari - used as a label
1932 - Gainsborough - the printed version was used to ID collections
1935 - KTF ? used on metal"
1935 - KTF. With a taller T than other letters & used on metal
1936 - CLIP-MATES used as a label
1937 - TRIFARI without the crown above T - used on metal
1939 - TRIFARI with crown above the T - used on metal
1950 - Orientique by TRIFARI - used as label to identify collection
Trifari Jewelry Designs Timeline
Gainsborough 1932
Jewels of Tanjore 1945
Talisman 1946
Moghul 1949
Scheherazade 1949
Day and Night 1949
Orientique by Trifari 1950
Gems of India 1951
Coronation Jewels 1952
L'Opera 1952
Evening Star 1954
Pins à la Mode 1958
Triege by Trifari 1958
Sorrento 1959
Etoile 1959
Fantasia by Trifari 1960
The Jewels of India 1965
Trifari's Fireworks 1966
L' Orient 1968
Trifari Light 1968
White Enamel Collection 1969
Ming Collection 1972
Diane Love Collection 1972
Trifari Ownership:
Founders and sons of founders of Trifari (1910 to 1975)
Hallmark Jewelry Co. (1975 to 1988)
Crystal Brands (1988 to 1994)
Chase Capital Partners, a
Lattice Holding Co., a division of the Monet Group (1994 to 2000)
Monet Group, was purchased by Liz Claiborne in (July 2000)
Liz Claiborne moved operations to Puerto Rico soon after purchase!
Trifari, Mosell, and Marvella Jewelry are now off shore operations.
To BUY or SELL Trifari, Crown Trifari, Alfred Philippe, or any other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.
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