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Tuesday, June 22, 2010

The Jewelry Designer Series – Coro & Corocraft

The Jewelry Designer Series – Coro & Corocraft

The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. It is the hope that each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution. Coro, Corocraft and Coro Pegasus is the second in the series. To buy or sell Coro and any of the derivations throughout the years, please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.

Coro History:

Emanuel Cohn and Carl Rosenberger started their firm in 1901. Their early jewelry pieces were marked “CR”. They shortened the name to Coro in 1919. Their first retail venture was an accessories boutique in New York City and they realized very shortly that they not only were shrewd businessmen but had “a good eye” for design, style and quality. They hired very talented jewelry designers to produce their conceptual designs and to reflect their creative esthete. Up until now their manufacturing work was outsourced until finally in 1911 they purchased their own facility in Providence, RI. The company’s strength was its business plan and uncanny marketing techniques and at its zenith Coro employed over 3500 workers.
Cohn died in 1910, but the name remained Cohn & Rosenberger. Rosenberger died in 1957, & his son Gerald, who succeeded him, died in 1967.

In 1969 the family sold 51% of the Coro stock to Richton, Intl. Corp., who bought the remaining stock in 1970. Richton also owned the Oscar de la Renta brand. By 1979 all the Coro companies, except the Canadian company, were bankrupt. It was sold to a South American company in 1992 that also went bankrupt

Early Beginnings and Adolph Katz:

Adolph Katz’s career as Coro’s head designer, spanned nearly 40 years. Katz was responsible for reviewing the designs of more junior artists and deciding which would be made and introduced into the market. According to patent records, Katz was a remarkably talented and prolific designer, holding more jewelry design patents in his name than anyone else in the industry. Much of Coro’s incredible business success is attributable to Katz and Coro’s diverse, beautiful and imaginative jewelry lines are evidence of his enormous talent. It was Katz’s vision that defined Coro. Katz joined Coro in 1924. His rise through the company was meteoric as he became head designer and production manager in 1937, Vice President in 1948 and Executive Vice President in 1960. Katz’s career with Coro lasted from the 1930s through the 1970’s.

Adolph Katz was not only a talented designer and craftsman but an engineering genius. One of his most famous is the “duette” a pair of pins that were attached to a specially designed piece of hardware that allowed the pins to be worn together or separately. Other contributions include his gorgeous and massive multicolored rhinestones, glass cabochons and enamel work flowers, birds and “critter” brooches.

In the 1950’s, Adolph Katz oversaw the development of Coro’s “new” Vendome line that was sold in very exclusive department stores and was to replace Corocraft as Coro’s highest quality jewelry line. Under Katz’s supervision and the beautiful designs of Helen Marion were the main factors behind Vendome’s success in the 1960’s. The designs used the finest faceted crystals, imported rhinestones with clarity and brilliance and top quality metalwork combined in artistically expressive designs and is marked "Vendome".

Coro Designers

Among the well known jewelry designers who worked at Coro at some point in their careers were Gene Verecchio (Verri), who produced the celebrated “Quivering Camellia” line as well as many distinctively beautiful jewels made with faux “moonstone” multi-colored cabochons. Gene Verecchio designed for Coro from 1933to the end of the 1963 (he and his son Ron own Gem-Craft). It is believed by many that Gene Verri was the head designer under Adolph Katz’s managerial guidance and personally responsible for many of Coro's famous designs.

It is also believed that many of the patents developed by Verri were signed by Adolph Katz as only a representative of the company.

Charles E. Pauzat ~1939-1940
Oscar Placco ~1938-1945?
Robert Geissman ~1938
Carol McDonald ~1940
Marion Weeber ~1940-1941
Sidney Pearl ~1941
Lester Gaba ~1941
Victor di Mezza ~1950

Samples of Coro:

VINTAGE FISH SPINE GREY RHINESTONE LINK NECKLACE
VINTAGE CORO ARROW DESIGN TEXTURED LINK BRACELET EARRING DEMI
ANTIQUE FABULOUS CORO MAGIC MASSIVE PLASTIC & RHINESTONE DEMI
VINTAGE CORO HERALDIC SHEILD CROWN SWORDS CLOISONNE KNIGHT IN SHINING ARMOR PIN
VINTAGE CORO DESIGN PATENT PENDING RHINESTONE WILTED LILIES FLOWER PIN
VINTAGE CORO COPYRIGHT AQUAMARINE RHINESTONE FOLDED DESIGN PIN
VINTAGE CORO ROSES ON A VINE MASSIVE GOLDEN PIN
VINTAGE CORO PEGASUS PINKY BLUE AURORA BOREALIS RHINESTONE MASSIVE TULIP PIN

Despite this roster of talent, most Coro jewelry is not individually marked with the designer's name and is only marked as the work of the company. As a result, Coro came to be known for a certain design aesthetic that was largely correlated with the designs that Adolph Katz chose to commission for the company. The company made a wide variety of pieces from figural to floral, and they developed different lines marketed at different price ranges but always with recognizable quality. Coro created these different lines to market to consumers in different income brackets, and they created distribution networks for the jewelry that would maintain this segmentation of jewelry lines and the type of stores that could carry it. Some of their higher end lines were made of sterling silver or sterling silver with a fine gold vermeil finish. Vendome was the company's high end line, a shrewd marketing move since by the mid-20th century the Coro mark had become associated with more of a mass market line of costume jewelry

Jewelry Signatures, Marks and Designs For Coro (listed in alphabetical order)
The list of marks for Coro and all of its many lines is almost endless.

A general “Rule Of Thumb” is if Copyright Symbol is present, your piece shows the copyright dates to after 1955. Many jewelry manufacturers switched from patents to copyrights around this time. The copyright number is linked to a particular year in which it was made (you can find these numbers and dates online). Following are the many marks used by Coro over the years:

Mark: C and R from 1922
Mark: flying horse-Pegasus- mark used alone-no name 1939
Mark: 47 West 1965
Mark: A Coro Original -- script 1947
Mark: A MASTERPIECE OF FASHION JEWELRY 1943
Mark: Ajusta 1948
Mark: Alice-In-Wonderland Dec. 1933
Mark: Almanac of Life 1954
Mark: Americana 1936
Mark: Ancestral 1930
Mark: Andre' 1937
Mark: Andre' hair fashions 1937
Mark: ANDREE RUPERT JEWELRY (on fancy barbell) 1937
Mark: Arista 1954
Mark: Aristocrat 1950
Mark: As you Like It 1939
Mark: Atomic 1945
Mark: Black Beauty 1946
Mark: Blithe Blossom 1956
Mark: Blue Danube 1929
Mark: Calypso 1957
Mark: Carracca 1940
Mark: Cellini(script)
Mark: Charmers 1959
Mark: Chatter Pins 1948
Mark: Cherubin 1956
Mark: Churchill Downs 1960
Mark: Cleopatra 1959
Mark: Clip-Ease 1941
Mark: Cloud-drift `950
Mark: Cocktail Set 1947
Mark: Collegiate 1940
Mark: Color a la Carte 1959
Mark: Colorama 1954
Mark: Colossus of Rhodes, Greece, Coro
Mark: Constellation 1946
Mark: Contessa 1952
Mark: Coquette 1948
Mark: Corel 1971
Mark: Coro hangtag
Mark: Coro(script at angle) 1919
Mark: Pegasus figure 1939
Mark: Pegasus figure beside empty rectangle 1945
Mark: Coro with "R" inside a square
Mark: Coro-script-no angle-different font 1919
Mark: Coro, Des. Pat. Pend.
Mark: Foil tag
Mark: Coro (scrip at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1945
Mark: After 1955
Mark: Coro - heavier Script at angle -- 1940
Mark: CORO, Inc.
Mark: April Daisy, White Sapphire, Coro - pre-1955
Mark: CORO-CLAD 1965
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle
Mark: Coro CRAFT (Coro- script, CRAFT- printed; in rectangle, Pegasus beside) 1938
Mark: Corocraft(script at angle in rectangle with Pegasus beside) 1933--1979; [sterling prior to 1950]
Mark: Coro Craft-both in script-tall script 1935

Mark: Corocraft in script
Mark: CoroCraft Sterling with flying Pegasus

Mark: Coro Craft Sterling

Mark: Coro Creations by Francois 1937
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette
Mark: Coro Duette Pat. No. 1798867
Mark: Coro Elegante-different font 1944
Mark: Coro Fashion Watches 1958 (first "o" has a watch face)
Mark: CORO-KLAD 1965
Mark: Coro (script) Radiance (all on square tag) 1932
Mark: Coro Silvo
Mark: Coro Supreme-script-different font --1943
Mark: Coro-Teens 1940
Mark: Hand-Made by Coro, STERLING CRAFT (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Corochrome --1957
Mark: Corograms--1922
Mark: Corolite (in a circle) 1923
Mark: Corolite
Mark: Coro Magic -script 1960
Mark: Coro Mexico -- 1943 -- 1950 Coro contracted Taller Borda Silversmiths, owned by H. Aquilar
Mark: CORONATION 1965
Mark: Coro Originals(delicate script) 1947
Mark: Coro Silver in circle shape with MEX inside.
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Sterling
Mark: Coro Sterling - (Coro script, Sterling block print)
Mark: Coro Ster.
Mark: Coro Teens
Mark: Coroteens-script 1951
Mark: Corotots -- script at an angle 1941
Mark: Court Jester 1955
Mark: Crowing Glory script with crowa a-top the "C" & "G" 1965
Mark: CZARINA 1950
Mark: Daily Double 1951
Mark: Day and Night 1940
Mark: Debutante(italics) 1935
Mark: Debutante 1935
Mark: Deamboat (script) 1959
Mark: Duette 1929;
Mark: Ear Charmers 1956
Mark: Electra Trisemble 1931
Mark: Elegante' script 1948
Mark: Elite(script) 1948
Mark: EMPRESS EUGENIE(straight print-other companies also used variation of this) 1930
Mark: Fashion Flair(script) 1957
Mark: Fashion Square 1931
Mark: Fashionata(script) 1960
Mark: Fire Bird 1963
Mark: FLUID LOOK 1959
Mark: FLUTTERBYS 1963
Mark: for that priceless look 1944
Mark: Francois(script) 1937 - c. 1960
Mark: Futura 1953
Mark: Futurama 1953
Mark: Galaxy 1949
Mark: Giftpak 1953
Mark: Glamor 1940
Mark: Glamour(script) 1941; renewed in 1976, now dead
Mark: Glamourcraft (script) 1958
Mark: Glitter Bobs(script) 1956
Mark: Golden Rod script 1926
Mark: Grandeur (script) 1950
Mark: GROTTO BLUE 1926
Mark: Harlequin 1928
Mark: Hi Jinks by Coro( on a bar-bell-like mark) 1940
Mark: Imperial Bouquet 1931
Mark: Jewelcraft 1920; mark now owned by Gem-Craft Quick
Mark: Jewelcraft(at angle) 1920; was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelcraft England was still being used during the 1950's with Pegasus
Mark: Jewelfully Yours 1947
Mark: Jewels by Francois (Francois in script) 1937
Mark: Jingle Jangle 1958
Mark: Jingle Rings 1958
Mark: La Belle 1963
Mark: Liberty 1934
Mark: Lovable (script) 1057
Mark: Love-Link 1934
Mark: Love Locket 1953
Mark: Lucky Buck (script) 1959
Mark: Lustralite (script) 1950
Mark: Made in Canada -- pieces made in Coro's Canadian factory were marked such. They were made for Birks, but were probably sold in other major department stores. not all pieces marked "Made in Canada" are Coro.
Mark: Made in Mexico---- Hector Aguilar --1943 to 1950 words inside a circle: around the top
Mark: Magic Eye (script) 1938
Mark: MAGICLIP straight letters 1950
Mark: Magi-Clip script 1960
Mark: Mah Jongg 1923
Mark: Maharani Mid-Eastern look print 1935
Mark: Maharani script 1937
Mark: MAMIE 1952
Mark: Mantelet Medieval print 1949
Mark: Memories of Life (script) 1954
Mark: Meringue 1942
Mark: Metalite (script) 1929
Mark: Millionears script 1949
Mark: Moonbeam by Coro 1941
Mark: Moonbeam 1956
Mark: Moonrays 1956
Mark: Music Box 1923
Mark: Night Owls 1944
Mark: Norseland 1940's
Mark: Our Little Darling 1946
Mark: PADDOCH by Coro ( on a bar-bell) 1941
Mark: PAINT-BOX 1937
Mark: Paragon (script) 1946
Mark: PERSONETTES 1950
Mark: Pinafore
Mark: Prestige (script) 1948
Mark: Queen Bees 1943
Mark: Quick-Trik
Mark: Quintette (script) 1938
Mark: Quivering Camellia (script) 1939
Mark: Rambling Roses (script) 1944
Mark: Rapture by Coro (on shield) 1942
Mark: Raven 1963
Mark: Regala (script) 1948
Mark: Romantic 1931
Mark: Round The Clock 1956
Mark: SCINTILLA 1933
Mark: Smart Set (script) 1935
Mark: Smart Set (block print)
Mark: Soda Set (script) (pic of a soda w/straw beside) 1957
Mark: Soft-touch (script) 1959
Mark: Southern Belle (script) 1940
Mark: Splendor (script) 1948
Mark: STERLING CRAFT, Hand-Made by Coro (on ends of bar-bell looking mark) --1941
Mark: Sterling Craft by Coro (inside oval set side-ways, "Sterling Craft" around top, "by Coro" around bottom)
Mark: Sterling S. Coro
Mark: Stocking Stuffer 1957
Mark: Styled to Beautify script 1938
Mark: Sublime (script) 1948
Mark: SUNBEAM 1927
Mark: SUN-KISSED 1929
Mark: Supreme (script) (written at angle) 1948
Mark: Teen-O-Grams 1958
Mark: TEMPLE BELLS 1964
Mark: Tempt Me 1963
Mark: The Angel of Love 1952
Mark: The Avenue 1925
Mark: Thoroughbreds 1942
Mark: Tickled Pink (script) written at angle 1958
Mark: Travelogue 1957
Mark: Trio Tricks 1951
Mark: TRIQUETTE 1937
Mark: TWEEDBEADS 1960
Mark: Twin Tones 1954
Mark: Valiant 1948
Mark: Vanity Fair 1945
Mark: Vendome 1944 -- 1970

Mark: Vendome with copyright, after 1955
Mark: H-A© Vendome
Mark: Wafer 1935
Mark: Whirlaway 1949
Mark: Wood Nymph 1963
Mark: Worn The Most From Coast to Coast 1940

To BUY or SELL Coro, Corocraft, Coro Pegasus, Vendome and other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.

2 comments:

  1. I have a CORO craft Pegasus brooch and matching earrings in a silvery gold with red and clear jewels, it is marked coro on the back of pin and earrings. Markings on jewelry container: the Pegasus is next to the box which has CORO in script printed at an angle and craft below it in print. it is in a nice heart shaped blue velvet box with white or cream silky liner and a thick cottony stuffed heart, lined in pink with coro jewelry printed on it, which holds the jewelry in place> It is in mint condition, and I would like to sell it..send request by email, to unklefesster@yahoo.com if interested.

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  2. Eyecandy4u...I didn't mean for this comment to be seen by anyone except you...sorry if it got published on google, I am not very saavy when it comes to computer knowledge and how to work these comment boxes.

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