The Jewelry Designer Series - Trifari and Crown Trifari

The Jewelry Designer Series - Crown Trifari

The Jewelry Designer Series is produced by VBMShops and Vintage Gems Emporium. This series is geared to the fine and costume jewelry collector. Each article will give highlights about major jewelry designers and manufacturers and their contribution to “beautifying the world”. Trifari and Crown Trifari is the first in the series. To buy or sell Trifari and Crown Trifari please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many fabulous and collectible fine and costume jewelry pieces.

Trifari & Crown Trifari

Most of the better costume jewelry manufacturers tried to create gorgeous jewelry designs using the best rhinestones and sets, metal finishes, hardware and fittings to best duplicate the look of the finest jewelry in the world for a fraction of the cost. Trifari and Crown Trifari was one of the few companies that achieved this feat and has become one of the most desirable collectibles in the costume jewelry market. Part of Trifari's enduring success has been built upon the glamorous clientele and prestigious publicity. More recently, Madonna wore Trifari in the Hollywood movie, Evita.

Early Beginnings:

Trifari was first known as "Trifari and Trifari", founded by Gustavo Trifari and his uncle in 1910 in New York City. When Gustavo's uncle left a couple of years later the company was known as just Trifari. Leo Krussman joined Trifari in 1917 and in 1925, Carl Fishel joined the company as head of sales. They renamed the company Trifari, Krussman and Fishel and their hallmark became KTF. Unfortunately due to lack of having a great jewelry designer on staff, the designs were less than exciting and somewhat underwhelming as compared to what was found in the fine jewelry market.

The entire jewelry market, fine and costume alike, were affected by the stock market crash of 1929. The fine jewelers had a hard time keeping their doors open and reduced their staffs to reduce costs. Many fine jewelry designers found work for the major costume jewelry manufacturers and thus started the beginning of how Trifari came to the forefront of jewelry design. Much of Trifari's success was due to the Frenchman, Alfred Philippe, who joined the company as its chief designer in 1930. Trifari produced outstanding jewelry in heavy sterling silver, often with luxurious vermeil (gold plate over silver). Trifanium, a non-tarnishing gold-finish alloy was named after the company.

Alfred Philippe

Alfred Philippe was a premier designer who worked in the fine jewelry segment for such famous firms as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. It was under Phillipe’s design direction that over the next few years, Trifari was turned completely around. His designs during the Art Deco period (1920-1935) became very popular. Due to the cost of the less expensive materials, Phillipe had the freedom to completely express his design esthete and created what today is considered Trifari’s “Golden Age” of jewelry design. His pieces were massive, decadent and embellished and resembled fine jewelry more than most fine jewelry did.
Alfred Philippe’s artistry was unequaled throughout the 1940’s and no designer had more influence on costume jewelry. During his reign at Trifari he created what has come to be known as “fruit salad” or “tutti frutti” and involved the use of many multiple cut and color rhinestones and crystals in his designs. His more serious and elegant pieces used clear rhinestones paved on delicate yet massive designs taken from nature such as his leafy spray pieces and massive flowers. Later he moved from the molded and faceted glass sets to lucite and created “jelly belly” designs of animals and birds and which are some of the most collectible costume jewelry to this day. As economic times brightened, Philippe used sterling silver instead of a base metal, as his cast pieces and the jewelry was signed Trifari Sterling and Des. Pat. Pend. Most all of Alfred Philippe’s pieces are sought by the fine designer costume jewelry collector and carry prices of $100’s and even $1000’s.
Philippe’s success continued throughout the 1930’s and up until 1966. Trifari brought in other known designers to continue the great reputation received as a result of Philippe’s collaboration.

Trifari Designers

Alfred Spaney (Late 1930s to 1940s) who created fabulous rhinestone studded animal pins
David Mir (1930s and 1940s) who created rhinestone embellished bow pins
Norman Bel Geddes (1940) American theatrical and industrial designer who focused on aerodynamics and his designs reflected this penchant.
Joseph Wuyts (1940) who did a whole red, white and blue enamel & rhinestone pin collection
Benedetto Panetta from Naples, Italy was a chief model maker and designer at Trifari before opening his own shop. Panetta produced fantastic jewelry, designs carved into metal with heavy sterling silver, silver plating, gold plating, and white metal backings. His jewelry was prong-set, hand-set, un-foiled, and contained exquisite details ranging from high quality rhinestones, simulated stones and pearls encrusted in Art Deco styles to the designing of enamel figural designs.
Jean Paris (1958-1965)
Andre Boeut (1967-1979)
Diane Love (1971-1974) her love affair with ancient things using artifacts worked into stunning jewelry pieces brought Trifari an unusual “edge” to their more traditional lines.
Jonathan Bailey (1970s) used a complicated lost wax process, Jonathan sculpted jewelry in the shapes of crabs, oysters, workboats, skipjacks and rockfish.
Marcella Saltz (1980s-1990s) created more contemporary executions and finishing of ancient and antique design elements.

Signatures & Marks For Trifari

Jewels by TRIFARI(crown over T in Trifari 1920) "used as label"
Gainsborough (1932) "printed version used to ID collection"
KTF (mark first in use 1935) "on metal"
KTF. (taller T than other letters) 1935 "on metal"
CLIP-MATES (1936) "used as label"
TRIFARI (without the crown above T) "first used 1937 on metal"
(CROWN) TRIFARI (with crown above the T) "first used in 1939 on metal
Orientique by TRIFARI (1950) "Used as label to identify collection"
Ear-Mates (signed in script 1953) "used as label"
T (T hang tag with open detailed crown on top 1954) "metal hang tag on item"
KTF (crown over T 1954) "used to ID KTF Industrial Products"
TIE-UPS (1957) "used as label"
Tie-Ups by TRIFARI (Tie-Ups in script and crown over T in Trifari 1957) "used as label"
Triege by TRIFARI (Triege in script with crown over T in Trifari 1958) "Label used to ID collection"

By Date:

1920 - Jewels by TRIFARI with the crown over T in Trifari - used as a label
1932 - Gainsborough - the printed version was used to ID collections
1935 - KTF ? used on metal"
1935 - KTF. With a taller T than other letters & used on metal
1936 - CLIP-MATES used as a label
1937 - TRIFARI without the crown above T - used on metal
1939 - TRIFARI with crown above the T - used on metal
1950 - Orientique by TRIFARI - used as label to identify collection

Trifari Jewelry Designs Timeline

Gainsborough 1932
Jewels of Tanjore 1945
Talisman 1946
Moghul 1949
Scheherazade 1949
Day and Night 1949
Orientique by Trifari 1950
Gems of India 1951
Coronation Jewels 1952
L'Opera 1952
Evening Star 1954
Pins à la Mode 1958
Triege by Trifari 1958
Sorrento 1959
Etoile 1959
Fantasia by Trifari 1960
The Jewels of India 1965
Trifari's Fireworks 1966
L' Orient 1968
Trifari Light 1968
White Enamel Collection 1969
Ming Collection 1972
Diane Love Collection 1972
Trifari Ownership:
Founders and sons of founders of Trifari (1910 to 1975)
Hallmark Jewelry Co. (1975 to 1988)
Crystal Brands (1988 to 1994)
Chase Capital Partners, a
Lattice Holding Co., a division of the Monet Group (1994 to 2000)
Monet Group, was purchased by Liz Claiborne in (July 2000)
Liz Claiborne moved operations to Puerto Rico soon after purchase!
Trifari, Mosell, and Marvella Jewelry are now off shore operations.

To BUY or SELL Trifari, Crown Trifari, Alfred Philippe, or any other antique, vintage or new jewelry designs please visit Vintage Gems Emporium, registration is free and you will find many wonderful and collectible fine and costume jewelry.